Sewing Tips: How to Hem Knit Fabric with 6 Easy Methods

Hemming knit fabric doesn't have to be daunting! With the right techniques and a little practice, you can transform your sewing projects into polished, professional-looking creations.

Whether you're working on a cozy sweater, a stylish dress, or comfy leggings, mastering this skill will open up a world of possibilities for your wardrobe. 

Get ready to elevate your sewing game! In this guide, we'll walk you through different methods for hem stretch fabric, ensuring your finished pieces look and feel fabulous. Let's dive in! 

Key Takeaways

• Use ballpoint or stretch needles to prevent damage and ensure smooth sewing on knit fabric.
• Wash and dry knit fabric before hemming to avoid shrinkage and distortion.
• Employ zigzag or twin-needle stitches to maintain the fabric's stretch and elasticity.
• Stabilize hems with fusible web or stay tape to prevent shifting and distortion.
• Test stitch settings on scrap fabric to achieve optimal results and prevent issues.

How to Hem Knit Fabric: Preparation Steps

Start by washing and drying your knit fabric to prevent any unwanted shrinkage later.

Once ready, measure and mark the hemline using fabric chalk or a removable marker.

Wash and Dry the Fabric

Prewash the knit fabric in cold water using a gentle cycle and mild detergent. This step removes any sizing and helps prevent shrinkage once your project is complete.

After washing, lay the fabric flat or use a low heat setting in the dryer to avoid distortion. Remember, high heat can damage the fibers, so keep it low.

Once dry, use a low-heat iron with a press cloth to smooth out wrinkles. Allow the fabric to relax before you proceed.

Measure and Mark the Hemline

Measure and mark the hemline carefully to achieve a precise hem on your knit fabric.

First, wear or lay the garment flat to determine the desired hem length.

Then, use a measuring tape to measure the desired hemline, marking increments with fabric chalk or a removable marker.

At last, pin or baste the marked hemline to hold it in place.

How to Hem Knit Fabric: 6 Hemming Methods

When hemming stretch fabric, you've got six techniques to consider. Let's follow these tutorials carefully.

Method 1: Double-Fold Hem

For a neat and durable finish on knit fabrics, the double-fold hem method is an excellent choice.

1. First fold: Fold the raw edge of the fabric up by ½ inch (or desired width) and press with an iron.
2. Second fold: Fold the newly pressed edge again by another ½ inch, enclosing the raw edge, and press once more.
3. Pin the hem: Pin the folded hem, ensuring it stays even around the entire edge.
4. Sew the hem: Sew close to the inner fold, allowing for some stretch in the knit fabric.
5. Finish and press: Remove the pins, trim loose threads, and press the hem in place.

Method 2: Use a Twin Needle

Mastering a twin needle can elevate your knit fabric hemming to a professional level.

First, set up a regular sewing machine with a twin needle, ensuring you have two spools of thread for the top and one in the bobbin. This setup creates two parallel lines on the right side and a zigzag on the underside, perfect for stretch knit fabrics.

Adjust your machine to a longer length of 3.5 to 4 to avoid skipped stitches. Before sewing knits, test on a scrap piece to ensure compatibility.

Incorporate stay tape along the hemline to minimize tunneling and puckering. 

Method 3: Serged Hem

Serging is a swift and efficient way to hem stretch fabrics, ensuring a clean and stretchy finish. You'll need a serger or overlock machine to create a serged hem.

1. Thread your serger with a matching thread and set it to a 3-thread overlock stitch.
2. Fold the fabric hem by the hem allowance and press with an iron to create a crease.
3. Place the fabric under the serger's presser foot with the raw edge aligned with the blade.
4. Engage the serger and guide the fabric through, trimming the excess while stitching.
5. Ensure the stitches are even and not too tight or loose.
6. Once serged, press the hem again to set the stitches.

Method 4: Zigzag Stitch Hem

Hemming stretch fabric with a zigzag stitch is a versatile method that offers both stretch and durability.

1. Start by setting your machine to a medium-width and small to medium-length zigzag stitch.
2. Use a ballpoint or stretch needle to handle the fabric's elasticity without causing skipped stitches or damage.
3. Fold and pin the hem allowance to keep everything even while you sew. 
4. Make sure your bobbin thread matches the visible side of the hem for a seamless finish.
5. Once you've sewn the hem, gently press the hem with a low heat setting. 

Method 5: Blind Hem

The blind hem technique achieves a nearly invisible finish on stable knits.

1. Turn the hem under and secure it with pins or basting stitches.
2. Use the blind hem stitch setting on your sewing machine. This setting catches only a few threads on the fabric's right side, ensuring a discreet seam.
3. For knits prone to rolling, apply stay tape to keep the fabric flat and manageable.
4. If your machine has a stretch blind hem option, use it to maintain elasticity in the hem.
5. Pay attention to tension adjustments to prevent puckering and achieve a smooth finish.

Method 6: Coverstitch Hem

The coverstitch hem is a go-to technique for knit garments. It offers a polished finish that mimics ready-to-wear clothing.

To set up your cover stitch machine, use a stretch needle and two spools of thread. This setting will produce parallel rows of stitching on the top and a loop on the underside, allowing the hem to stretch while maintaining its shape.

Before you begin, stabilize your fabric to prevent waviness. Adjust the differential feed on your machine to avoid stretching the fabric as you sew.

Always test on a scrap piece of knit fabric to ensure the settings are correct.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

When hemming stretch fabric, you might encounter stretched or wavy hems, skipped stitches, and uneven hems.

Stretched or Wavy Hems

Why do knit hems often end up stretched or wavy? It usually happens when the wrong stitch type is used. To avoid stretched hems, use a zigzag stitch to accommodate the fabric's elasticity.

A walking foot can also help by keeping layers of fabric from shifting and reducing wave distortion. Before you start hemming, stabilize your fabric with a fusible web or stay tape.

Remember, the type of needle matters too. A ballpoint needle is ideal for knits.

Skipped Stitches and Thread Breakage

You might also encounter skipped stitches and thread breakage, which can be frustrating.

To prevent these issues, start by using ballpoint or stretch needles. Check your needle size, too—sizes like 70/10 or 75/11 are ideal for delicate knits.

Thread breakage often results from incorrect tension settings. Adjust the upper thread tension and verify the bobbin tension to ensure smooth stitching. Always use high-quality threads to reduce the likelihood of breakage and enhance durability.

Lastly, keep your machine clean and ensure the needle is sharp and properly inserted.

Uneven Hems

Encountering uneven hems can be a common challenge, but there are several strategies you can employ.

1. First, check your stitch tension. Incorrect settings can lead to uneven hems.
2. Pre-pressing the hem creates a guide, helping you maintain consistency while sewing.
3. Fusible hem tape adds stability, preventing stretching or rolling that often causes uneven hems.
4. Always test your stitch on a scrap piece to catch any puckering or distortion early.

Employ these techniques for a flawless, even hemline.

Conclusion

To successfully hem stretch fabric, remember to prep your material by washing and marking the hemline.

Use the right tools, like a ballpoint needle and zigzag stitch, to keep the fabric's stretch intact. For the best results, choose between a double-fold hem and a cover stitch. 

Don't forget to stabilize the hem. Always test on scrap fabric first. With these steps, you'll achieve a professional and durable finish.

Learn more sewing tips on the Longan Craft Blog, and dive into the fabric world with Longancraft！

FAQs

What Is the Best Way to Hem Knit Fabric?

Use a zigzag stitch or a twin needle for stretch. Stabilize with fusible tape. A coverstitch machine works wonders. Don't forget to test on scrap fabric first!

Which Hemming Stitch Is Best for Knit Fabrics?

For knit fabrics, a zigzag stitch accommodates stretch and prevents breakage. Alternatively, a twin needle or cover stitch provides a professional finish while maintaining elasticity.

How to Finish Edges of Knit Fabric?

Use a zigzag stitch to finish knit fabric edges for stretch and durability. A serger offers a clean, professional look. Stabilize the fabric to prevent puckering. Always prewash fabric to avoid future shrinkage.

Can You Hem Something Knitted?

You can hem something knitted by using a twin needle or zigzag stitch. Stabilize with hem tape, and use a ballpoint needle to maintain stretch. Always test on scrap fabric to ensure a perfect finish.